Getting to Zanzibar First
Before getting around the island, you need to get there. Two main options connect Zanzibar to the outside world: international and domestic flights into Abeid Amani Karume International Airport (ZNZ), and high-speed ferries from Dar es Salaam.
By air: ZNZ receives direct international flights from several East African hubs (Nairobi, Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro) and seasonal charter flights from Europe. Domestic flights from Dar es Salaam (DAR) take about 20 minutes and run multiple times daily on Precision Air, Air Tanzania, Coastal Aviation, and Auric Air.
By ferry from Dar es Salaam: Fast ferries depart from Dar es Salaam's Kivukoni Ferry Terminal multiple times daily and take approximately 2 hours to reach the port in Stone Town. Azam Marine is the largest operator with the most frequent departures. Tickets cost around $35–40 USD per person one way in economy. Book in advance during peak periods. The channel crossing can be rough in the monsoon season (March–May, November). Keep your luggage with you — the holds are unsupervised.
Dala-Dala (Local Minibuses)
Dala-dalas are the primary public transport on the island — converted minibuses that run fixed routes from the Darajani terminal in Stone Town to most major villages and beaches. They are extremely cheap (2,000–4,000 TZS / roughly $0.75–$1.50 for most routes) and genuinely used by locals. They are also slow, overcrowded, and unpredictable in timing.
Key routes and their numbers:
- Route 501/502 → Paje (southeast coast, ~1.5 hours)
- Route 116 → Nungwi (north coast, ~1.5–2 hours, often with multiple transfers)
- Route 309 → Jambiani
- Route 206 → Kizimkazi (south, for dolphin tours)
Dala-dalas leave when full, not on a fixed schedule. They stop for anyone who flags them down, which extends journey times. Bags go on the roof or on laps. This is local life as it actually is — a genuine experience, but not suited to anyone with tight connections or a lot of luggage.
Taxis and Private Transfers
Taxis in Zanzibar do not use meters. Always agree the price before getting in. Drivers at the airport and ferry terminal will quote high opening prices — negotiating down by 30–40% is expected and accepted without hard feelings. Stone Town has a number of reliable taxi operators; your hotel can recommend one.
Approximate private transfer prices (negotiated, not guaranteed):
- Airport (ZNZ) to Stone Town: $10–15
- Airport to Paje or east coast beaches: $30–45
- Airport to Nungwi or north coast: $35–50
- Stone Town to Nungwi: $35–50
- Stone Town to Paje: $25–40
Shared transfers are cheaper and can be arranged through most Stone Town tour operators and hotels. You may wait for the vehicle to fill or be routed to drop off other passengers first, but costs are roughly half of private pricing.
Car Hire
Hiring a car gives you maximum flexibility for exploring the island at your own pace. A 4WD is strongly recommended — many roads outside the main sealed routes are unpaved and become deeply rutted in wet season. Standard small cars are also available and fine for tarmac routes.
You need a valid driving licence from your home country. Tanzanian law requires either a local driving permit or an international driving permit (IDP); the requirement is enforced inconsistently but having an IDP is advisable. Drive on the left. Fuel is available in Stone Town and larger villages (Nungwi has a petrol station).
Rental costs start around $40–60 USD per day for a small car, $60–90 for a 4WD, excluding fuel. Book through a Stone Town agency rather than from the airport to get better rates. Inspect the vehicle thoroughly and photograph any existing damage before driving away.
Scooter and Motorbike Hire
Scooter hire is popular among independent travellers and costs around $15–25 USD per day. The freedom to explore village roads, stop at viewpoints, and reach beaches inaccessible by dala-dala is a genuine advantage. Helmets should be provided but quality varies — serious riders bring their own. Night riding on unlit roads shared with pedestrians and livestock is genuinely dangerous and should be avoided.
The same licence requirements apply as for cars. Road surfaces degrade significantly once off the main sealed routes, and potholes, speed bumps (often unmarked), and gravel patches cause falls even at low speeds.
Bodaboda (Motorbike Taxis)
Bodabodas are motorbike taxis available at markets, junctions, and ferry points across the island. They are fast, cheap, and useful for short hops within Stone Town or between nearby villages. Helmets are rarely offered. They are not suitable for longer journeys or carrying luggage. Agree the fare in advance — short trips within Stone Town should cost 2,000–5,000 TZS.
Approximate Drive Times from the Airport
The airport (ZNZ) is located about 6 km south of Stone Town. From the airport:
- Stone Town: 15–20 minutes
- Paje (southeast coast): 45–60 minutes
- Jambiani: 60 minutes
- Nungwi (north coast): 1 hour 15 minutes – 1 hour 30 minutes
- Kendwa: 1 hour 30 minutes
- Matemwe (northeast): 1 hour – 1 hour 15 minutes
- Kizimkazi (south, dolphins): 45 minutes
Journey times increase significantly in the rainy season when unpaved sections of road become muddy, and during late afternoon when traffic leaving Stone Town is heavier.
Getting Around Stone Town
Stone Town's old city is a UNESCO-listed labyrinth of lanes too narrow for cars. The only way to navigate it is on foot. Once you've walked the same alley three times and still emerged at an unexpected junction, you'll understand why getting lost is both inevitable and enjoyable. Key landmarks — the Old Fort, House of Wonders, Forodhani Gardens — are close together near the waterfront and act as reliable anchors. Tuk-tuks operate on the wider roads at the edges of the old city.
